THE CASANOVA TOUR - by Pablo Günther - part II

THE CASANOVA TOUR
by Pablo Günther

( Contents ) Part II:

POSTING, ALPINE PASSES, SHIPS: Casanova and Travelling in the Century of the Grand Tour.
(continuation of part I :) The Post: National Peculiarities - French Regulations for Travelling Post - Costs : Six thousand Posthorses / 1 Posthorse / Stage-Coaches / Carriers / Hired Carriages / Cambiatura / Taxis / Purchase of Carriages- Rich and Poor Private Carriage Travellers - Speeds - Roads - Alpine Passes - The Mont Cenis - Ships . (Part III : Travelling Carriages)

The Post: National Peculiarities.

    Around 1725 most of the European states had their own national posts but there were a few exceptions and peculiarities:
    In Switzerland, there were different private post companies which did not rent horses to travellers. Casanova states briefly (GmL,vol.VI,p.98) : "in Switzerland, there were no posts". Nevertheless, he could drive in his own carriage through the country, evidently providing himself with horses from carriers.
    The official post of the Holy Roman Empire was the Thurn und Taxis Reichspost, founded in 1490. This company provided the South, the West, some middle states and the Austrian Netherlands. Austria, Prussia, Saxony, Hessen - Kassel, Hannover, Brunswick, Mecklenburg and larger Empire- or Hansa-cities had their own state posts.
    In Italy, there were six large state posts:
1. The Austrian Post, which provided the Duchies of Milan, Mantua and Tuscany;
2. The Roman Post of the Ecclesiastical State;
3. The Post of the Kingdom of Sardinia (Savoy, Piedmont);
4. The Post of the Kingdom of Naples;
5. The Post of the Republic of Genoa;
6. The Post of the Republic of Venice.
In addition, there were the smaller posts of Modena and Parma, as well as the Thurn und Taxis Reichspost (also called "Flandrian Post") in some other cities.
.

French Regulations for Travelling Post.

I give here an excerpt from the "Extraits des Règlements sur le Fait des Postes" of the 1781 guide of post stations "Liste Générale des Postes de France" (italics, "postillon" and the &: original writing). The regulations of most countries' post companies were similar to the French.

Weights & loading with trunks, suitcases, boxes & porte-manteaux.
    Two-wheeled carriages, with thills (brancard); and those on four wheels, with a single seat, having shafts (limonière), must not to be loaded at the rear with more than a hundred pounds (livres), & at the front with more than forty.
    Every Courier à franc étrier[at a gallop; that is here a person accompanying a private carriage, e.g. Casanova's servant Le Duc as fore-rider], can only load his saddle-bags.
    The Couriers en guide [these are single travellers] cannot transport with them a wooden box but only a porte-manteau of at most fifty pounds; which must not be loaded on the croup by the postillon.
Number of horses & postillons necessary to couriers.
    Every Courier at a gallop who is not accompanying a carriage, must engage a mounted postillon to serve him as a guide [like Casanova did when riding from Pont-de-Beauvoisin to Lyons].
    One postillon can guide five couriers at a gallop; if there are six, they have to engage a second postillon.
    The number of horses to be paid for must be equal to the number of passengers in the carriage, whether travelling behind or on the seat, (...) as explained in detail in the following:
Two-wheeled carriages, with thills.
    Carrying one person, they must be guided by one postillon & harnessed to two horses [like Casanova in his several chaises de poste].
        Two persons: one postillon, three horses.
        Three persons: one postillon, three horses, but one has to pay for four.
        Four persons: one postillon, three horses, but one pays for five.
        (...)
        The cabriolets called à soufflets & all others without glass-windows, if they carry a single person, should not be harnessed to more than two horses, and guided by one postillon.
Four-wheeled carriages, having a single seat and shafts.
    Carrying one or two persons, without luggage, they should be guided by one postillon & harnessed to three horses.
        Two persons, with suitcase & porte-manteau, required two postillons and four horses.
        Three persons: two postillons, four horses, but to pay for five.
        Four persons: two postillons, six horses.
Four-wheeled carriages, with poles.
    Carrying one or two persons, should be guided by two postillons & be harnessed to four horses [like Casanova in his several coupés].
        Three persons: two postillons, four horses, but to pay for five.
        Four persons: two postillons, six horses.
        Five persons: two postillons, six horses, but to pay for seven.
        Six persons: three postillons, eight horses, but to pay for nine.
(Ordonnances du 28 Novembre 1756.)
Prices of horses.
    Throughout the Kingdom, all persons of whatever qualité & condition, must pay before leaving the post station, twenty five sols per post for every horse, for whatever use it is required [12.5 Pence (d.); 1.38 d. per kilometre]. (Ordon. des 8 Déc. 1738 & 28 Nov. 1756) See the calcul:

Table of prices for post horses. "Liste Générale des Postes de France", Paris 1781. - Photo: Museum Achse, Rad und Wagen, Wiehl.
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Postes Royales.
    When entering & leaving the cities of Paris, Versailles & Lyons, even during the absence of the King, the first post costs double (...).
Traverse.
    Post-masters are forbidden to guide Couriers [travellers] more than four leagues [4 lieues = 18 km] in the traverse [off the post road] (...).
Embarquements.
    When Couriers leave a post station to embark upon a riverboat, the leaseholders of the water Coches & Diligences, or the ferrymen of the towns where these postes are situated, are forbidden to embark the said couriers without payment of three livres to the postmasters for every person, whether master or servant.
    Couriers are regarded as those who embark Berlines or Chaises, saddles or boots. (Ordonnances des 19 Aout 1735 & 15 Avril 1746.)
Chevaux de Malle, de Service ou de Diligences.
    Travellers are forbidden to take away, par ruse ou par violence, horses destined for use with freight-wagons, stage-coaches, or even those which the postmasters have been ordered to reserve.
Police.
    Couriers at a gallop are forbidden to use their own bridles.
    They must not overtake the postillon; all postmasters are forbidden to supply horses to accompanied Couriers arriving without their postillon (...).
    Fore-riders have to stay at the post station until their master's carriage has arrived.
    It is forbidden to ill-treat the servants, the postillons, or the horses (...).
    Postmasters are not allowed to supply horses for a carriage drawn by horses not belonging to the post.
    Travellers cannot force a postillon to go more than one post (stage).
    Travellers have to be served in the order in which they arrive at the post.
    Postmasters are forbidden to employ postillons less than sixteen years old.
    The costs for turnpikes, ferries, bridges & at custom-houses have to be paid by the travellers & are separate from the price of the courses.

Costs.

The payment for travelling post was calculated by "posts" or "stages", the distances between two stations or relays. They differed in each country:

England: ................ 8.0 km, 5 English miles, or 1 "(post-)stage".
France and Holland: 9.0 km, 2 lieues / French miles, or 1 "poste".
Russia: ................ 10.7 km, 10 versts, or 1 post.
Italy: ................... 12.0 km, 8 Italian miles, or 1 "posta".
Germany: ............ 15.0 km, 2 German miles, or 1 "Post".

Example: when the real distance between two post stations (the post-stage) in France was 3 miles, instead of the usual 2, one had to pay for "one and a half posts". Nugent states (vol.IV,p.17) : "The post-stages are seldom above one post and a half, or two posts long."
Exceptions: Holland and the countries in the north of Germany calculated in their miles.

    To give an idea of the costs involved, these distances have been converted into kilometres and the prices into a single currency (here the English Penny (d.) of the eighteenth century which had about the same purchasing power like the Euro in 2002 (cf "Currencies").
    Thus, a seat in a stage coach cost between 1 and 2 Pence per kilometre, and the hire of one post horse from 1.38 to 3.33 d., according to the country.
    This was very expensive: for only 2 kilometres in a German stage coach, one had in 1766 to pay about as much as for a kind of "Big Mac" in Hase's cook-shop in Berlin, namely 2.70 d. (cf again "Currencies", costs in Berlin).
    Today (April 2002), for the same price as for a real Big Mac (2.70 Euro), one can use the German railway over 19 kilometres; or one can buy in Germany enough petrol for a small car to travel about 40 kilometres.
    Casanova, who most of the time had to hire 4 post horses with his travelling carriages, would on the average have only been able to travel 350 metres for that account of money (2.7 d.)...
Six thousand Posthorses.
   Until 1774 (period of the memoirs), when using the services of the travelling or "driving post" (in German: Fahrpost), Casanova took stage coaches only 22.3 per cent of the total distance, while for 77.7 per cent he travelled posting (German term: Extra-Post), that means with his own (C 1-14), hired (L), or his friends' (K) carriages, hiring post horses.
    Extra-post travellers could additionally use post roads where stage coach lines did not operate, but which had a mail service.
    In those times posting was the most comfortable, but also the most expensive, method of travelling, equivalent today to flying in a private aeroplane.
   Altogether (that means until 1798), in his own or hired travelling carriages, Casanova covered 30,665 kilometres.
    On average, he had to take 3.6 posthorses which were exchanged after - again on average - 18 kilometres. Thus, he paid about 250,000 Pence (converted) when changing horses 1,704 times for 6,134 of those post horses...

Costs for 1 Posthorse.

English Pence (d.)

France (Liste générale, 1781): per post 25 sols; per km: ......................................................... 1.38
Ecclesiastical State, Parma, Milan (Nemeitz, 1726): per post 4 Paoli; per km: ....................... 1.92
Venice (Mead, 1740): per post 4 French livres; per km: ......................................................... 3.33
Tuscany (Smollett, 1764): per post 3 Paoli; per km: .............................................................. 1.50
Prussia (Nicolai, 1769): per mile 9 grosses incl. postilion; per km: .......................................... 2.16
Austria & Bohemia (Nugent, 1756): 45 creitzers per stage,
and 20 cr. to the postilion; per km ................................................................................... 2.16
Franconia, Suabia, Rhine-countries (Nugent, 1756): 60 cr.
plus 20 cr. to the postilion; per km ................................................................................... 2.64
Netherlands (Mead, 1792): per English mile 5 pence incl. postilion; per km ............................ 3.12

(average per km: 2.28)

.
Stage-Wagons and Stage-Coaches.

To distinguish between simple open carriages ("wagons") and more comfortable closed carriages ("coaches").

1 seat in the "Newberry flying stage coach" (The Daily Post, 27-4-1727)
London - Newberry 9 Shillings; ./. 100 km = per km: ........................................................ 1.08
1 seat in the (large freight) "coche" (Nugent, 1756) Paris - Versailles 25 sols; ./. 20 = per km: ... 0.62
1 seat in the "stage-coach" (Nugent, 1756) Paris - Lyons 75 livres; ./. 460 = per km: ................ 1.63
1 seat in the "ordinary post-waggon" (Nugent, 1756) in Germany "somewhat
less than 2 pence every English mile", plus 2 grosses for the postilion per post; per km: .......... 1.49
ditto, Prussia, per German mile (Nicolai, 1769): 6 grosses; per km ........................................... 1.49
1 seat in the "post-waggon" (Nugent, 1756) Rotterdam - Antwerp 9 gilders 9 stivers; per km: ... 1.86

Carriers.

A carrier was called in France "voiturin", in Italy "vetturino" (or Procaccio in Venice) and in Germany "Landkutscher". Everywhere in Europe carriers complemented the services of the post stations. They were not allowed to hire post horses but had always to use the same mules or horses; in consequence their speed was very slow.

Venice (J C Goethe, 1740): 2 persons including food, per day
and about 50 kilometers, 1 Sequin; per km: .............................................. 2.22
Piedmont (Casanova, 1762): 2 persons, Geneva - Mont Cenis
(expensive!) - Turin 8 Louis d'or; per km: ................................................ 6.00

Hired Carriages.

Travelling carriages and horses were usually hired from post-stations, and town carriages from private entrepreneurs.

France (Casanova, 1763): basic price (without horses) Paris - Lyons 144 Francs; per km: ........ 3.13
Paris (Martyn, before 1770): Hire for a town coach per month 12 Guineas; per day: ............... 96.00
Rome (Nugent, 1756): Hire of a "coach and a pair of horses" per month 11 Pistols; per day: ... 66.00

Cambiatura.

The Cambiatura was a system in use in north and middle Italy whereby Ministers of the Post, accorded travellers who requested it, the privilege to save on costs by hiring post carriages which, to the discomfort of the traveller, had to be exchanged at every stage. In Venice this system was known as the "Bollettino". Casanova's friend Simone Stratico stated (p.66) that he saved one third of the usual fees in Milan in 1770. If postillons were required, they had to be paid for out of a traveller's own purse.
This privilege began a long tradition; up until 1991 tourists travelling by motorcar in Italy could buy in their own country credit notes for petrol subsidized by the Italian Government.

Tuscany (Smollett, 1764): per post and 2 horses 10 Paoli; per km: .................................... 5.0
Piedmont (Smollett, 1764): ditto, 5 1/2 livres; per km: ..................................................... 4.6
Venice (Sharp, 1765): per post and 4 horses 7 shillings 3 pence; with 2 horses, per km: ...... 3.6

Taxis.

Carriages and their coachmen for hire, licensed by the city governments. They were called e.g. hackneys, fiacres or Droschkes. First established in Rome at the end of the 16th century (Wackernagel, in: Treue, p. 213), after a few decades they also appeared in London, Paris, Vienna, Berlin, and many other cities.

Paris (Casanova, 1759): fiacre (no specification) 24 sols = ................................. 12.0
Berlin (Nicolai, 1766): "Rate of the hired [hackney-] coaches or Fiacres":
"For a ride within the towns of Berlin, Cölln and Werder": 4 Gr. = ....................... 7.2
From here in the nearest suburbs: 5 Gr. = ........................................................... 9.0
Waiting period: 1. hour: 8 Gr. = ....................................................................... 14.4
2. and further hour: 4 Gr. = ............................................................................... 7.2 [as comparison: waiting period in 2002: Euro 18,- per hour]

Purchase of Carriages.
Paris & Calais (Smollett, 1763): a second-hand travelling coach: 35 Guineas ......................... 8,400
Lyons (Casanova, 1763): a second-hand two-wheeled French Chaise de Poste: 40 Louis d'or .. 9,600
Rome (Nemeitz, 1725): a new, simple sedia (two-wheeled "Italian chaise"): 30 Scudi ............... 1,800
Cesena / Bologna (Casanova, 1749): a second-hand English Post-Chariot:
    200 Roman Sequins = .................................................................................................... 21,600
Bologna (Casanova, 1772): a second-hand (English?) coupé: 300 Roman Scudi .................... 18,000
Geneva (Casanova, 1762): a second-hand English Post-Chariot: 100 Louis d'or,
    plus a coach worth about 6,000 d. .................................................................................. 30,000
Berlin (Nicolai, 1781): a new travelling "Vienna Carriage", a four-wheeled
    four-seater, open: 70 Ducats ............................................................................................ 8,400
Mainz (Casanova, 1783): a second-hand four-wheeled and two-seater chaise: 5 Louis d'or ...... 1,200
London (Goodwin, 1756 - 1799): new Post-Chaises and Post-Chariots,
    with basic equipment: prices around 100 Guineas ............................................................. 24,000
    luxury model: at most 200 Guineas ................................................................................. 48,000
London (Lamberg [Marr 2-71], 1790): State-coach for the Empress
Katharina II, made by John Hatchett: 6.000 Rubel ............................................................ 324.000
London (La Roche, 1785): State-Coach for the Nabob of Arcot,
made by Hatchett: 5,000 Guineas ................................................................................... 1,200,000

Rich and Poor Private Carriage Travellers.

A rather rare method of travelling was always using the same carriage-horse(s). In this way, travelling very slowly, Mozart's most famous librettist, Lorenzo da Ponte, and his wife Nancy arrived at Dux in 1792, to see their old friend Casanova. Together they drove to near Teplice where the carriage broke down and had to be sold. Casanova acted as agent achieving a price of 60 piastres (3,600 d.), keeping back for himself a commission of 2 Sequins or 6% (220 d.) to pay for his return journey.
(Da Ponte continues (p.122 f.) : "He added, because he would not be able to give me back the two Sequins, just as he could not repay his old debts of some hundreds of florins [some 3,000 d.], he would like to give me, in thanks for that, three pieces of advice which were of more value than all the treasures in the world.")

In complete contrast, Casanova's master at Dux, the horse-mad Count Joseph Charles von Waldstein, used to travel between Prague and Vienna in 1796. In doing so he did not only rely on post-stages but additionally could fall back on stages of his own which involved the use of 36 horses. This was a practical measure for quick driving because - as another friend of Casanova, the eighteen year old Prince Charles Joseph von Clary - Aldringen(photo: M Leeflang) of Teplice, wrote in his diary* on 23rd June 1796 - the Count was on the road with two coaches harnessed to six and two horses.

However, even that did not reach the height of luxury travel. Three days later (26th June) Clary noted in his diary:
"We set out from Prague at nine thirty. At Schlan we dined; there we met the cook of Madame [Countess Wilhelmine] de Lichtenau, who prepared the meal for her. Neither Semiramis nor Cleopatra travelled with such a display like Madame de L. She needed 18 horses at each stage; her cook and a courier always riding ahead, because she must find everywhere a meal like she had at home. Her cook dished us up some petits plats parfaits, de biscuits et d'oranges. She is on her way from Italy where she had spent almost a year, until she thought it prudent not to wait in Venice for the arrival of the French [Army under General Napoleon Bonaparte], but to return to Berlin. In Vienna she stayed eight days. It is said that the King [Frederic William II. of Prussia] sent her for the return journey 26,000 Thalers [1,404,000 d.]."
(Photo: The "Prussian Pompadour", Wilhelmine Countess of Lichtenau. Painting (detail) by Angelika Kaufmann, Naples 1795/96. From: E Cyran, Preußisches Rokoko, Berlin 1979. Photo: PG.)
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* Lolo. Le Journal du prince Charles Joseph Clary- Aldringen. Ed. by M. Leeflang, Utrecht 1995.

Speeds.

    Only on one occasion did Casanova complain about a bad road; that was between Magdeburg and Berlin when he was angry about the loss of time. In contrast, he praised the "excellent" roads in France and Italy, which enabled him to travel fast. Driving day and night in his own carriage, he covered up to 240 kilometres in 24 hours.
    Stage-wagons were much slower. The quick ones achieved a speed of, at most, 5 km per hour, the slowest only 2 km/h.
    As a rule of thumb I propose a comparison: Private drivers, who were on the road 12 hours a day, covered as much or as little ground as we would today in one hour - then as nowadays, the speed depended on the road conditions, the carriage, the money and other individual factors.

Roads.

    Four countries had some highways (causeways, chaussées; fastened artificial roads): France, England, Italy, and all the United Netherlands (Holland) which had many highways, together with a great network of waterways. Other countries began chaussée building only at the end of the century, or later.
    Driving on unmade roads was often dangerous because of the ruts caused by the wheels. Casanova wrote (HL,vol.VIII,p.237) :
"For my part, accustomed to being overturned, I suffered no damage. It depends on the position one assumes. Don Ciccio may have hurt his arm because he put it outside [the door-window]."
    As today, on many motorways, it was necessary to pay a toll/turnpike for using the roads.

Alpine Passes.

In the Alps, the first road over a pass, which was broad enough and not too steep for carriages, was built in 1387. This was the Roman Septimer Pass near St. Moritz which connected Chiavenna (or Milan) with Chur (the Romans had excellent carriage roads but only mule tracks over the high passes).
Casanova crossed five passes in different parts of the Alps:

year* name height (meters) connections (Casanova's crossings)
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1728 .. Semmering ...................... 900 .... Vienna - Graz (3)
1772 .. Brenner ........................ 1,374 .... Innsbruck - Bolzano (2)
1782 .. Tenda ........................... 1,871 .... Nice - Turin (1)
1803 .. Mont Cenis .................. 2,083 .... Lyons - Turin (6)
1905 .. Grand Saint Bernard .... 2,473 .... Lausanne - Turin (1)
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[* year of road-building]

Apart from the Semmering (and the Brenner in 1783), Casanova found only mule-tracks on the passes. Travellers usually let themselves be carried by "mountaineers", horses or mules. Stage coaches or other commercial wagons, were left back at the foot of the mountain. Private carriages were taken to pieces and transported over the pass; Casanova went through this routine on six different occasions.

* * *
The Mont Cenis.

    For thousands of years Mont Cenis was the most important pass of the Western Alps. It was considered the easiest to cross (cf Michel de Montaigne, in the year 1581) and for this reason Grand Tourists almost always chose this pass on their journey from France (Lyons) to Italy (Turin).
    Already Hannibal's army took this pass (cf Josias Simler, Die Alpen, Zürich 1574, ed. by Deutscher Alpenverein 1984, Carta Verlag, p. 88 ff.).
    The age of the "carried chairs" and dismantling of carriages came to an end when Napoleon I allowed a road to be constructed, which remains to this day.
(Photo: Two "mountaineers" carrying a tourist down to Lanslebourg. -
Drawing by J. Keats, about 1780, from: Brilli, Il Viaggio in Italia.)
   Then, in 1869, the Mont Cenis Narrow Gauge Railway, imported from England (Fell Company), between Susa and Modane, was opened - the only railway ever built over such a high alpine pass. Only two years later, the construction of the present railway line between Lyons and Turin was completed and the trains passed through the nearby tunnel of Fréjus. This quicker route immediately led to the bankrupty of the mountain railway - a remarkable example of bad planning.
    Returning to the old "golden" days of travelling, I should like to show how I imagine - following my own experience - travellers crossed the Alps using the mule track over the Mont Cenis.
    By the time they reached Lanslebourg, the last post station on the west side, travellers had already been climbing slowly along the river Arc to a height of 1,400 meters. From there to the top of the pass (2,083 m) they were either carried, sitting comfortably in a chair, by two or more mountaineers, or they had to walk a further six kilometres which took about one and a half hours. Travelling in the opposite direction, when there was snow, they could enjoy a fast sledge ride of seven or eight minutes down the mountain; many travellers returned to the top to repeat this exhilarating experience. Beyond the top of the pass was a high valley, seven kilometres in length, containing a post station, a hospice and, at the end, the village of Grand Croix (1,850 m) - the only settlement which did not disappear into the waters of the reservoir. From there travellers began the descent of eight kilometres, following the creek Cenischia via the little village of Ferrera Cenisio (1,450 m) to the post station at Novalesa (830 m). This stretch of the way was not so comfortable as numerous rocks did not allow the use of sledges. At Novalesa, travellers again boarded a stage-coach, their carrier's chaise, or their own reassembled coach, and drove to the nearby town of Susa, the first proper Italian town with a Roman arch and other ancient buildings.

The village of Grand Croix, the only surviving settlement on the Mont Cenis. In the background is the wall of the reservoir. - Photo: PG.

Ships.

Antonio Canal was working on his painting "Il Bacino di San Marco" (here a cutting) just at the time when nine year-old Casanova set off for his first journey. This happened on a postboat called Il Burchiello, going on board at the Piazzetta, crossing the lagoon to Fusina and from there being towed (drawn by horses) on the river Brenta to Padua. There was no Grand-Tourist who did not praise this comfortable conveyance in his letters. - Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. From: Briganti, Glanzvolles Europa. Photo: PG.

Il Burchiello today. As in Casanova's time, passengers can enjoy the view of the magnificent villas on the riverbanks of the Brenta. Here the boat is passing Mira on its way to Padua (Photo left: PG). - The lock of Dolo, painting by Antonio Canal. Today the house in the lock contains a restaurant.

A model of a felucca, in the Museu Maritim at Barcelona. This was a coastal ship used everywhere on the Mediterranean Sea. Casanova took some between Antibes, Genoa and Lerici. - Photo: PG.

As a cadet in the Venetian Army, the sixteen year-old Casanova voyaged as far as Constantinople on board a galley. - An exact copy of the galley used by Don Juan d'Austria at the sea-battle of Lepanto (1571). Museu Maritim, Barcelona. Photo: Pere Vivas.

German Ferry. Cutting of a view of Speyer on Rhine by Matthaeus Merian, about 1640. - Photo: PG.

Draw-boat and stage coach meet on a bridge in France. E. g. in 1760, Casanova took such a boat on the rivers Isère and Rhone from Grenoble to Avignon (his travelling carriage was on board, too). - From: L'Indicateur Fidèle, Paris 1764 (cutting). Deutsches Postmuseum Frankfurt a.M. - Photo: PG.

...

Between Calais and Dover, Casanova used or chartered postboats, also called packetboats. - Picture in black and white: "King George Packet Boat (Dover - Calais)", about 1650, model at Dover Museum. / In Colour (full size and detail): "Dover-Calais Packetboat about 1815", recent painting and copyright by the English artist John Michael Groves RSMA (Royal Society of Marine Artists) . Thanks to Hector Zerbino and Derek Oakes for sending these excellent pictures.

Continuation: Travelling Carriages (Part III)

Impressum