THE CASANOVA TOUR
by Pablo Günther
POST ROADS - 2. London-Naples - (Part XI )
2. LONDON - NAPLES
Via Calais, Paris, Lyon, Mont Cenis Pass, Torino, Bologna, Firenze / Ancona and Roma.
2,170 km.
And: NAPLES - MARTIRANO / CALABRIA
Via Salerno, Eboli and Cosenza.
350 km.
London - Dover - Calais - Boulogne-s-mer - Amiens - Paris.
----------------------------------------------------From London to Calais
Excursions:
London - St. Albans
L 6308 L 6308^ H 6401 H 6401^
LONDON
5 A1200 Holloway
5 A1 Highgate
5 Whetston
5 BARNET
L 6308 L 6308^
BARNET
5 Mimms
5 Colney
5 ST. ALBANS
London - Richmond
H 6401 H 6401^
LONDON
A4 Bromton
BARNES
15 RICHMOND
----------------------------------------------------
From Amiens to CalaisHired carriage (Post-Chaise) Dover - London: 18 hours.
L 6306^+ Aranda K 6308+ Pauline P 6308^ P 6403+ Daturi
LONDON
A2 Deptford
? (Welling)
? (Crayford)
A2 Dartford
? Northfleet
? Chaulk Street
A2 ROCHESTER
? Raynham
A2 Newington Street
" SITTINGBOURNE
A2 Faversham
B2061 Boughton Street // Bocton Street
? (Justice)
A2 CANTERBURY
" Bishopsbourne
B2061 Lydden
? (Rivertown)
B2061 Buckland
120 " DOVER
S 6306^+ Aranda S 6308+ Pauline S 6308^ S 6403+ Daturi
English Channel DOVER
50 CALAIS [Kingdom of France]
This was the usual road from Calais in the direction of Paris. Casanova, when driving from Paris to Dunkirk, used two parallel routes from Abbéville onwards and on the way back to Amiens. But, firstly, a section which completes the route from Calais to Dunkirk:C3 5708 C9 6306+ Aranda
AMIENS
N 235 Picquigny
N 1 Flixecourt
" Ailly
45 " ABBÉVILLE
C9 6306+ Aranda
ABBÉVILLE
N 1 Nouvion " Bernay "Relais de Poste" on town sign (photo: PG)
" Nampont45 " Montreuil post: Hotel de France (photo)
Almost in an original state is the "Hotel de France" and "Relais de Roy" in Montreuil. Of special interest might be the typical inner courtyard. There is a huge fresco, which recalls the stay of Lawrence Sterne during his "sentimental journey" in 1765. - Photo: PG.
'N 1 Cormont
N 1 Samer
" Boulogne-s-mer
" Marquise
" Hauteville / Hautbuisson?
70 " CALAIS
Paris - Dunkirk in 3 days.C9 6403+ Daturi
CALAIS
25 N 1 GRAVELINES
Dunkerque - Amiens (via Aire):C3 5708
ABBÉVILLE
D 928 le Boisle
" Hesdin
55 " Fruges
" Avroult
" ST.OMER
N 43 la Recousse
65 D 218 GRAVELINES
C3 5708 C9 6403+ Daturi
GRAVELINES
20 N 1 DUNKERQUE
Back to the direct road from Paris to Calais:C3 5709 C9 6403
DUNKERQUE
10 D 916 Bergues
C3 5709
Bergues
D 916 Cassel
D 238 AIRE
N 43 (?) Lillers (?)
60 D 91 Pernes
D 916 St.Pol
" Frévent
" Doullens
N 25 Talmas
70 " AMIENS
From Paris to FontainebleauC3 5708 C3 5709^ C9 6306+ Aranda/Giuseppe Pompeati
PARIS
N 1 St.Denis
N 16 Ecouen
" Luzarches
" Chantilly
50 D 916A Laigneville
N 16 Clermont
D 916 St.Just-en-Chaussée
D 916 Wavigny
" Breteuil
N 1 Flers-s-Noye
" Hébécourt
75 " AMIENS
Paris - Fontainebleau - Nevers or Auxerre - Lyon.
From Fontainebleau to Lyon (via Nevers) "La Route Bourbonnaise"P 5006^+ A.Balletti C6 6106^ C9 6306^+ Adèle 8310 8310^
PARIS
N 7 Villejuif
" Paraye-Vieille-Poste
? Fromenteau
N 7 Essonnes
" Ponthierry
" Chailly-en-Bière
60 " FONTAINEBLEAU
From Lyon to Fontainebleau (via Chalons-s-Saone) "La Route Bourgognaise"C6: Lyon - Paris in 2,5 days
C6 6106^ C9 6306^+ Adèle
FONTAINEBLEAU
N 7 Bourron
&c Nemours
Glandelles
la Croisière
Fontenay
Puy-la-Laude
Montargis
la Commodité
Nogent
les Bézards
la Bussière
Bel Air
90 BRIARE
Ousson
Bonny
Neuvy
la Celle
COSNE
Maltaverne
Pouilly
Mesves
la Charité
Pougues
80 NEVERS
Magny
Villars
ST.PIERRE-LE-MOUTIER
Chantenay
Villeneuve
la Vieille Poste
50 MOULINS
Bessay
N 7 la Vieille Poste
VARENNES
St.Géraud
Lapalisse
Droiturier
D 570 St.Martin d'Estreaux
N 7 Pacaudière
&c St.Germain l'Espinasse
90 ROANNE
l'Hopital-s-Rhins
ST.SYMPHORIEN
la Fontaine
Tarare
D 67 Les Arnas / la Croisette
N 7 L'ARBRESLE / LA BRESLE *
" La Tour-de-Salvagny
75 " LYON
[* Wrong writing by Casanova: "La Bresse".]
From Lyon to ChambéryP 5006+ A.Balletti
LYON
? le Puits d'Or / D 42 Limonest
? les Echelles / N 6 Anse
30 N 6 Villefranche
&c St. Georges
La Maison Blanche
Macon
St. Albain
Tournus
80 Sennecey
Chalons-s-Saone
Chagny
40 la Rochepot
Ivry
Arney
le Maupas
50 Saulieu
la Roche
Rouvray
Cussy-les-Forges
D 944 Lucy-le-Bois
D 332 la Poste-aux-Alouettes
N 6 Vermenton
via Irancy St. Bris-le-Vineux
90 D 956 Auxerre
N 6 Bassou
&c Joigny
Villevallier
Villeneuve-s-Yonne
Sens
Pont-s-Yonne
Villeneuve-la-Guyard
Fossard
Moret
110 FONTAINEBLEAU
Lyon - Chambéry - Mont Cenis Pass - Torino - Tortona - Piacenza - Bologna
From Chambéry to Torino over the Mont CenisP 5006^+ Balletti C6 6106^ C8 6209 C8 6305+ Marcolina H 6305^
LYON
N 6 Bron
&c St. Laurent
Verpillière
BOURGOIN-Jallieu
Vachère
TOUR-DU-PIN
Gaz
70 PONT-DE-BEAUVOISIN [bridge over the river Guiers: boundary crossing France / Kingdom of Sardinia]
P 5006^+ Balletti C6 6106^ C8 6209
PONT-DE-BEAUVOISIN
N 6 Echelles
" St. Thibaud
40 " CHAMBÉRY
From Torino to BolognaC1 4912^+ Henriette P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6105^ C8 6209 C8 6211^ C8 6301
CHAMBÉRY
N6 Montmélian
D 204 Maltaverne (y)
" Aiguebelle
N 6 Epierre
&c la Chambre
ST.-JEAN-DE-MAURIENNE
St.-Michel-de-Maurienne
St. André
Villarodin-Bourget
Bramans
125 Lanslebourg. .B 4912^ M 5005^ M 6105^ M 6209 B 6211^ M 6301
Except 1750, with the dismantled English Coupés.
Road constructed 1803-1810.
Lanslebourg (photo: Chambéry, Musée Savoisien)
mule- & sledge track (La Ramasse), in front of the:
5 - Col du MONT CENIS; 2083 mh (photo: the author and his 2CV in 1996)
High valley with the Lac du Mont Cenis, today a much enlarged reservoir.
mule-track La (Poste de) Tavernette; Hospice disappeared in the reservoir.
10 " (Grand - Croix) Frontier Savoy / Piedmont. Chapel (1626) well restored; guest and farm houses falling down.
Z 4912^ Z 5005^ Z 6105^ Z 6209 Z 6211^ Z 6301
No possibility for using sledges. Carriages transported by pack-horses or mules.
(Grand - Croix)
mule-track (Ferrera Cenisio)
10 " NOVALESA (y) (photo: PG) C1 4912^+ Henriette P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6105^ C8 6209 C8 6211^ C8 6301
NOVALESA
10 L Susa
N 25 S. Giorio
" S. Antonio
" S. Ambrogio
" RIVOLI
50 " TORINO
From Bologna to Roma (via Firenze)C1 4912^+ Henriette C2 5001 P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6103^ P 7003Excursion:
TORINO
N 20 Trofarello
N 29 Poirino
N 29r Dusino/S.Michele
? La Gambetta
N 10 Asti
&c Castello di Annone
Felizzano
ALESSANDRIA
Lungafame
110 TORTONA
C1 4912^+ Henriette C2 5001 P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6103^ C8 6303^ P 7003
TORTONA
15 N 10 Voghera
C1 4912^+ Henriette C2 5001 P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6103^ P 7003
Voghera
N 10 Broni
" Castel S. Giovanni [Duchy of Parma]
55 " PIACENZA
C1 4911^, C1 4911, C1 4912^+ Henriette C2 5001 P 5005^+ Balletti
C6 6103^ P 7003
PIACENZA
N 9 Via Aemilia Fiorenzuola
" Fidenza / Borgo S. Donnino
" Castelguelfo
60 " PARMA
C1 4908, C1 4908^+ Henriette
PARMA
15 N 343 COLORNOC1 4907^+ Henriette C2 5002 P 5005^+ Balletti(from Reggio) C6 6103^ P 7003
PARMA
N 9 Via Aemilia Sant' Ilario d' Enza [Duchy of Modena]
" REGGIO
" Rubiera
50 " MODENA
C1 4907^+ Henriette C2 5002 P 5005^+ Balletti C6 6103^ P 7003 P 7209^ P 7209
N 9 Via Aemilia MODENA
" Ponte Samoggia [Ecclesiastical State]
40 " BOLOGNA
Bologna - Firenze or Ancona - Roma
From Bologna to Roma (via Ancona)(4405) (4501^) C6 6102^/L 6102^+ Corticelli P 7003 C14 7112^
BOLOGNA
N 65 Pianoro
30 &c Loiano
(Monghidoro) = (SCARICALASINO)
La Posta Filigare [Duchy of Tuscany]
(Passo della Raticosa, 968 mh)
(Pietramala)
20 Covigliaio (1742) // N 503 Firenzuola (1705)
(Passo della Futa, 903 mh) // (Rifredo)
Montecarelli (1742) // N 503 Giogo [pass] (1705)
25 Cafaggiolo (1742) // N 503 S. Piero (1705)
Fontebuona (1742) // ? UCCELLATOIO* (1705)
25 FIRENZE
[* This older stage (listed e.g. in a post-map of 1705) was situated near the new one Fontebuona (for the first time mentioned in the Thurn and Taxis - guide of 1742). Presumably Casanova mentioned it, because he used an out-of-date guide while writing in Dux.]
(4405) (4501^) C6 6012 C6 6102^ C14 7107^
FIRENZE N 2 Via Cassia S. Casciano ("Antica Posta". Photo: PG)
" Tavarnelle
50 " Poggibonsi
(4405) (4501^) C6 6012 C6 6102^ P 7005 C14 7107^
N 2 Via Cassia Poggibonsi
" Castellina Scalo
25 " SIENA (Via Cassia and Porta di Roma. Photo: PG) (4405) (4501^) C6 6012 C6 6102^ V 7006+ Betty C14 7107^
N 2 SIENA Via Cassia
" Monteroni d`Arbia
25 " BUONCONVENTO
" Torrenieri
" (S. QUIRICO) " LA SCALA (photo: PG)
? Riccorsi
40 N2 + L RADICOFANI(4405) (4501^) C6 6012 C6 6102^ V 7006, V 7006^, L 7006+ Betty C14 7107^
Radicofani: Villa Medicea della Posta. Photo taken in June 1994 by PG.
RADICOFANI
L + N 2 CENTENO [Ecclesiastical State]
25 Via Cassia ACQUAPENDENTE
" S. Lorenzo Nuovo
" Bolsena
" MONTEFIASCONE
45 " VITERBO
? Posta Montagna di Viterbo (north of Lago di Vico)
L Ronciglione
35 L + N 2 MONTEROSI
(4405) (4501^) C6 6012 C6 6102^+ Poinsinet (up to Firenze) L 7006+ Betty
C14 7107^
MONTEROSI
N 2 Via Cassia Baccano
" POSTA DELLA STORTA
35 " ROMA
Ancona - Bologna:
210 km Hired carriage; on horseback; mule; stage wagon; English Coupé;
Vetturino.
L 4403+ Bellino V 7210^
ANCONA [Ecclesiastical State]
? Case Bruciate
25 N 16 SENIGALLIA
" Marotta
" Fano
35 " PESARO
H 4403 the first time on horseback. V 7210^
N 16 (SANTA MARIA; fortress in PESARO)
" Cattolica
35 " RIMINI
M 4403 V 7210^
RIMINI
15 N 9 Via Aemilia SAVIGNANO
P 4403 V 7210^
SAVIGNANO
15 N 9 Via Aemilia CESENA
Posting inn: Piazza del Popolo / Via Zeffirino (photo: PG) P 4403 P 4906^ C1 4907+ Henriette V 7210^ K 7906^, K 7907+ Del Bene
CESENA
N 9 Via Aemilia FORLI
" Faenza
" Imola
" S. Nicolo
85 " BOLOGNA
Ancona - Roma:
290 km On foot and hitch-hiking; stage wagon.
F 4311 P 4402^
ANCONA
L Camerano
40 L LORETO
T 4311 P 4402^
N 77 (Sambucheto)
" MACERATA
30 " TOLENTINO
F 4311 P 4402^
N 77 VALCIMARRA
" (MUCCIA)
40 " SERRAVALLE
T 4312 P 4402^
N 77 (COLFIORITO)
" Casenove
" FOLIGNO
40 N 3 (PISSIGNANO)
F 4312 P 4402^
N 3 Via Flaminia SPOLETO
" (VALICO DI SOMMA)
" Strettura
" TERNI
" NARNI
70 " OTRICOLI
T 4312 P 4402^
N 3 Via Flaminia Borghetto
" Civita Castellana
" Rignano Flaminio
40 " CASTELNUOVO DI PORTO
F 4312 P 4402^
N 3 Via Flaminia Prima Porta
30 " ROMA Porta del Popolo
Excursion:From Roma to Napoli (via Terracina)
L 4401 L 4401^ C14 7104 C14 7104^
ROMA
20 N 215 (FRASCATI)
Excursion:
L 4401 L 4401^
ROMA
30 N 5 (TIVOLI)
Roma - Terracina or Monte Cassino - Napoli - Cosenza - Martirano
.V 4405 V 4406^+ Lucrezia C6 6012, C6 6101^+ Abate Alfani K 7006
ROMA
N 7 Via Appia TORRE DI MEZZAVIA d`Albano
N 7 + N 217 MARINO
L + N 7 La Faiola (between Genzano and Velletri)
N 7 VELLETRI
" CisternaN 7 + L SERMONETA
The Via Appia, 5 km south-east of Cisterna. Here the post road turns to the mountains in the east to avoid the malaria-infected Pontinian Marshes. - Photo: PG.
? Casenove
N 156 + L PRIVERNO / PIPERNO
? Li Marutti
110 L TERRACINA
N 7 Fondi [Kingdom of Naples]
Via Appia Itri
" Formia / Mola di Gaeta
J. Smith: "Il traghetto del Garigliano". The building contained the post station. About 1780. From: Brilli, Il Viaggio in Italia. - The same place in 1994. Photo: PG.
From Napoli to Roma (via Cassino)" ferry GARIGLIANO (photos)
" S. AGATA (near Sessa Aurunca)
1761^: overturned coupé; attempted robbery.
" FRANCOLISE
100 N 7 CAPUA
V 4405 V 4406^+ Lucrezia C6 6012, C6 6101^+ Abate Alfani K 7006 C14 7009^
N 7 CAPUA
N 7 bis AVERSA
30 " NAPOLI
C14 7009
Napoli - Capua: see above.
CAPUA
25 N 7 + N 6 Via Casilina Vairano Scalo
From here to Rome there were no post stations. However, the following places were mentioned by Nugent, Grand Tour IV, p. 315: "Journey from Naples to Rome, by Vettura."
? (S.Germano)
35 N 6 Via Casilina (MONTE CASSINO)
(Ceprano)
" (Frosinone)
" (Ferentino)
" (Valmontone)
? (Cava Nova)
130 N 6 ROMA
Excursions:From Napoli to Martirano
K 6101 K 6101^
NAPOLI
30 N 87 (CASERTA)
R 7007 R 7007^
NAPOLI
25 (SORRENTO)
L 7007 L 7007^
NAPOLI
45 N 18, N 145 (SORRENTO)
F 4405 V 4406^ P 7009 C14 7009^
NAPOLI
10 N 18 (PORTICI) excursion: up to the Monte Vesuvio.
V 4405 V 4406^ P 7009 C14 7009^
N 18 TORRE DEL GRECO
" Pagini // Nocera
50 " SALERNO
P 4405 V 4406^
SALERNO
N 19: ? Taverna Pinta
N 19 Eboli
" Scorzo
60 " Auletta
" Atena Scalo, Atena Lucana (?) / Alla Scala
" Casalbuono (?) / Casal novo
60 " Lagonegro
" Lauria
" Castelluccio
L Rotonda
70 L + N 19 Castrovillari
N 19 Spezzano (?) / Esaro
" Regina (3 km west of the N 19) / La Regina
70 " COSENZA
L 4405 L 4406^
COSENZA
N 19 + L Belsito
30 N 19 + L MARTIRANO [episcopal see]*
[* Near Martirano, King Henry, son of the Staufer-Emperor Frederic II., perished in 1242. Cf. Waldburg-Wolfegg, p.97: "Nowadays, Martirano still is a picture of misery. In 1905, the little town was destroyed by an earth-quake so completely, that the inhabitants gave up and settled in a different locality. Nevertheless particular houses are still inhabited, though the citadel, the churches, and the streets are totally destroyed."]